Sunday, March 29, 2015

Bow Peak "Gutentight Couloir"

The name "Gutentight" stems from this fun video of a good friend of ours who stayed in his beloved mountains forever. 
RIP Robson Gmoser
you were with us all day 
face shots in the middle part of "Gutentight"
A few days off work in the middle of March and continuous good stability in the Rockies allowed Andrew, Ben and myself to ski a couple nice lines together.
After warming up on the less committing Boom Couloir with Cassey tackling the first doggy style  ascent, we decided to head for the Ice Fields Parkway a few days later to step it up a notch and check out some road side attractions, this time around dog less. 
A good write up on the first outing
is to be found on Andrew Wexler's Blog

Sitting in the left hand back seat, Andrew's keen eyes for beautiful lines 
(btw. not just limited to mountains ) spotted this thing between the Grand Daddy and Funnel of Death on Bow Peak. Unable to make out if it actually connects due to the travelling speed of a way too fast Audi, many cliff bands and obscured skies, he took a mental note of it and without stopping we cruised northward.
But something changed inside Andrew's brain and his facial features transformed into a strange look that reminded me of a hungry animal sensing a scent while hunting for prey.
None of the other potential food source we spotted on our way suited Andrews high expectations though, so half an hour later we turned around and pulled into Mosquito Creek parking lot. Andrew picked up the scent again and sniffed his way up through the trees to go hunting for his prey...

And what a beauty she was, probably one of the most aesthetic lines I skied in a while.
Snowfall all day made for major spindrift, deep trail breaking and awesome skiing.
into the wild...
the 200m high walls left and right of the choke host some outstanding quartzite rock climb potential
exciting times through the lower choke
me hanging on my ice axe after long lasting spin drift
Wexler Picture
Ben amongst spin drifts in the connecting funnels of the middle part.
deep wallowing to the exit cornice
                         more pictures from the Gutenteight here

Another video I took last year of Robson Gmoser in Sorcerer lodge shows his famous laugh very well. Let's all give it an effort to laugh more in the future, it will make the world a better place.

Friday, February 27, 2015

you only know if you go

Although as humans we always like to know what's going on and have a distinct desire to predict the future, it is the unknown which we seek when going on our little adventures outside the comfort and temptation of our plentiful coffee shops and Elevation Places in town.
The great unknown in our case was, if the line on the west summit of Mt. Whymper we spotted last spring goes or not. Also, in order to catch up with some gossip that built up during this Winter I had to find a special goal for Wex and Josh to lure them in for the much needed boot backing. 
With below's picture I set the hook.
The question mark on the X shaped couloir right of the center of the picture was the hidden parts we did not see from this angle, and how big the cornices would be threatening the entire line.
The first part of the lower left leg of the X was pretty straight forward 
and delivered boot packing at it's finest. We made quick progress, 
even with our heli ski pampered legs.

At the intersection of the X things got a bit narrower and rock steps seemed to block the passage.
Doubt started to show up on our faces and uncertainty started to slowly creep into our initial hype.
After wallowing in deep facets close to the rocks I was able to make an exposed rock traverse out into the upper right arm of the X.
wexler picture
Above the rock step, a few nervous moments in more bottomless facets, until the snow got firmer and more reassuring. This last part of the couloir is very committing since one would be swept over a 30m high cliff if going for a ride for whatever reason.
 There is also a cornice looming above, in our case it was not very threatening thanks to the fairly lame Winter we've had so far.
Should you constantly look up to see if something falls down on you or simply ignore the beast?
Nowhere to run anyways.
We found a fairly easy exit out to the right and into the light of the summit ridge.
The last steps to the summit of a very tired but seemingly content Wex.
Finally, el Cumbre!
Me stoked out of my mind, planting the Austrian flag as a proof of reaching the top,
 and Josh trying to digest Kimbi's home made date squares which he forgot to chew.
wexler picture

Josh and Wex are typical friendly Canadians and therefore offered me to drop in first, and since I am Austrian I took up on the offer. The proper Canadian way would have been to offer the offer back, something like "very kind of you, but why don't YOU go ahead".
 Spending over 20 years in this beautiful country I slowly get the concept, but offers like this I simply can't refuse, screw the proper local customs and let selfishness take over the moment.
Wexler Picture
After a few turns I started a major sluff that ran full path, so I found an island of safety and waited for my friends to ski by and took some pictures. These are all taken above the "no fuck up or you die" zone above the aforementioned cliff band.

You should know that when Wexler shows up with AT gear, there will be some serious line to be skied. No trying to be a hero and freewheeling on this one...

Luckily everything went well and we were even able to keep our skies on from the 
summit to the base, thanks to an exposed short traverse on a shallow ramp back into the lower, 
less committing half.

Joshua in his element, steep and icy...just like Galena

This line was certainly one of the finer lines I was able to ski in the Rockies, simply due to the fact that it was an ad hoc decision to go there
that it was a big ? if she goes
that she actually did go
that it surprisingly skied quite well top to bottom
that I was able to catch up with some good gossip
that it was a great day with good friends 
And now back to the heli ski world, no more boot packing for at least 2 weeks...
omg, I'm gonna miss it!
wexler picture
A big thanks goes out to the young bucks who broke trail for the old man.
Here is a link to a short video Josh put together:

Saturday, February 21, 2015

what it takes to be a "classic'

Recently a guest asked me what it takes to call an ice climb a classic. I try to explain it below with a water fall and it's yours to figure out which one it is...
Although for many a ice climber a very casual day out, it has been an adventure for this young man who just had his first multi pitch experience on ice. Like for so many climbers before, a grand introduction to the world of multi pitch ice climbing.
 The local favourite, fairly easy accessible by bike or a long flat walk, is one of the best choices for the moderate grade. Especially when temperatures are warm and other ever greens like Cascade and Rogans Gully have been melted away by the never-ending waves of Pinnapples and Chinooks. 
This climb is a classic for a reason, and the reason is that it's always there. From the end of October until the beginning of May, it delivers even through the most intense warm spells. Also, the ice on the path holds up against any physical laws, I'm always amazed about the skating rink quality of the ice puddles after a day of plus 10.
The one physical law though you might encounter first hand is the one of free fall, 
9.8m per second per second
Off the bike and into the weapons, might as well get used to them on the last 5min on the outflow of the falls.
The falls provide 6-8pitches of climbing, separated by a couple of short walks in between, with the crux on the last one. Bolted anchors on nice stances speed up the process and provide rappel options for 60m single ropes. There is also the option to walk off and it is recommended to do so in times of high traffic as a curtesy to the following climbers.
This is one of the few water fall ice climbs in the Rockies that can safely provide options for multiple parties if one respects a few basics. 
The upper part of the climb should be avoided at times of high avalanche hazard, at least once a season a big greaser spills over the last crux pitch and covers the gully below in house high debris.
A pretty stroll back to the bikes, with the right timing you can catch the happy hour and a well deserved pint at the St. James Gate.
Those are some of the ingredients needed for a climb to be classic, at least in my opinion.

Friday, February 13, 2015

El Ninjo

It has been a strange and rather unusual Winter so far. We are again in the middle of a so called Pineapple express, which means that the jet stream pumps warm and moist air from the general direction of Hawai over the warm south Pacific towards our mountain ranges. The third one so far this Season and also the longest lasting. 
Here in my little heli ski world bubble of the Adamants things turned out to be pretty good, we were able to stay out of the lower elevation wet snow for the most part and the weather was just good enough to hang out in the alpine lately. The guiding though has been particularly exhausting due to the flat light and extremely fast changing weather conditions.
Unicorn in the Adamant group,
with the clouds lingering around the peaks since a few weeks now.
Another big part of my Winter job is ice climbing. Canmore is a great hub for this activity and I already guided 3 weeks of mostly excellent ice. In the Rockies the warm temperatures were rather beneficial to the ice quality and the comfort factor. So far me and my guests never had to deal with the infamous screaming barfies, an otherwise constant companion in Winter outings in ice.
Pilsner Pillar
For the first time I took my guest up to the very top, another 5 pitches of nice ice to had.
Vito and Motz, friends of mine from Austria, came over for an ice climbing trip and sampled a lot of the harder multi pitch climbs. On one of their later outings in the Ghost Motz got hit by a large chunk of ice on his head and had to be airlifted by Kananskis Country Public Safety. I would like to thank them big time for their quick and professional response. We are so lucky to have those guys staged in Canmore with the rescue helicopter right there, there are few places in North America who have this luxury and potentially life saving service available for back country mishaps.
Motz Wurzer negotiating thin ice with one tool after dropping the other one on the last rock move  on the crux pitch of  Cryophobia...don't wanna blow the on sight because of a little mishap.
Vito Messini puts his tools away and enjoys the perfect limestone bare handed.
This is rather rare for January and another nice side effect of El Ninjo.
BTW there is a hanger missing on this pitch.
Traditional Ale, a climb I put up a decade ago with Marc Piche at minus 25C.
Motz enjoys it at plus 5.

Sunday, November 2, 2014


While some folks in the Bow Valley have already been observed in plentiful numbers dry tooling in the shady and dark Playgrounds on Grotto Mountain, others did enjoy the perfect fall conditions lately to soak up the sun on warm rock well above 2000m, on the highest cliff  Echo Canyon has to offer.
When our Lord envisioned "Bellavista", the main purpose of his creation was to extend the climbing season for the poor locals who could not effort to go south in October on a regular basis in order to get some rock climbing fix in before the season closes. 
As the wise man he was back then (and hopefully still is), he took his hand and sliced a big chunk out of the high south flanks of Grotto Mountain. 
Unlike a straight hand of a Kung Fu Master, he did bend his into a half moon shape. With this simple trick he created a satellite dish feature that accommodates two different aspects and provides shelter from the almost constant west winds that seem to annoy most climbers.
And since it is for some reason not a forbidden fruit for a change, we just have to go up there and take advantage of his gift...
without being afraid to be kicked out of paradise.
Sounds like a good deal to me.
Simon Meis prior to a 6 o'clock sunset on Halloween day
 the only rain drops I saw in October, and they where kinda short lived 

Wednesday, October 22, 2014

Free Solo Masters

I've been wanting to write about this odd and unique event since quite a while but life got in the way. 
A fellow mountain guide from my home town Lienz in Austria,  Peter "Luna" Ortner, had this idea years ago and this Summer he finally made it happen. Most folks probably know him as an Alpinist, among many other big outings, he did the first free ascent of the east ridge of Cerro Torre with David Lama just a few days after the bolt chopping saga. 
This spring he focused on building this foldable, 16m high! climbing wall (EP in Canmore is 14m high). It can be easily transported on a truck and can be put up pretty much anywhere within minutes with the aid of a big crane. Then you blow up the 4m thick air mat (14x14m foot print), crank up the tunes and the competition can start. The rules are simple, climb on sight until you fall off. What counts is your high point and you got 3 minutes to finish the business , but all competitors either topped out or fell off prior to that. After a first and second round there were semi finals for the top 20 and then the finals later in the evening. 
What surprised all of us the most that the event turned out to be an absolut spectator magnet. By the time the Semi Finals rolled around the main square of Lienz was filled with more than 2000 people.
The last time I've seen such a crowd there was at the Carlos Santana concert in 1988.
Some good friends talked me into participating and although I had big concerns I really had a good time and I would not want to miss out on it. 
When do you as a rock climbers ever get a chance to fall from such a hight without hurting yourself? Although everybody knew that nothings gonna happen, it was still a huge adrenaline rush.
Wouldn't this be a good one for Canmore too?

Tuesday, October 7, 2014

back from the alps

I just returned to Canmore from another "Summer" in Europe. Most people thought that it was not really a Summer there, since it was the coldest and wettest in decades.
Although it is hard to hide the fact that I was at times jealous when I heard reports on the perfect conditions here in western Canada, we still had a pretty good time over there.
We just had to adopt to different goals, accept to get wet once in a while, and appreciate the fact that it is way nicer to hang out in a bar when the weather is crap.

Lisi Steurer collecting air miles on our 50m project on the water proof Falkenstein